E'terra and St Ignace/ August 9 and 10

It is Tuesday morning, August 11th and I am back on-line after a couple of days with too much to do and too little time.  (  I think that is going to be the theme of this trip - while I will be away for over 5 weeks, I don't think I will have enough time to do and see what I want to.  Oh, well.  These are busy and full days.)

My last day at E'terra was packed with sensory experiences. I had arranged to have breakfast at 9, but awoke around 7 to the smells of dark, rich coffee brewing in the kitchen.  With a large cup in hand I returned to bed and watched Good Morning America, my usual routine when I am home. At nine, Laurie brought in a breakfast tray with thick slices of homemade toast and jam and a fruit salad with fresh peaches and blueberries and cherries. I had asked for a light breakfast because I was to have a massage at 10. Christiana, Laurie's gal Friday, is a massage student and she was setting for me. She came to get me around 10:30 and for the next 90 minutes or so she practiced her magic. I hadn't realized my body was as sore from so much driving (I've logged over 1000 miles already) as it was. The massage quite literally hit the spot - actually all the spots!




I had arranged for Tramp and me to go out on the harbor for a cruise of all the islands and sunken ships at 2, and as it was 12:30 by the time I was dressed and ready to go out,  we decided to drive into town to explore a bit. The restaurants all promoted their fish and chips - the big local food, but a few also had poutine which piqued my curiosity. I'd never heard of that and I love to try local specialties so.... Turns out that poutine is french fries covered in melted cheese and smothered in gravy. Well - had to try it, right? Let me simply say this. After eating half the order I thought I might never eat again!



At 2 Tramp and I were waiting at the harbor next to The Lark for Gary, the captain, to tell us to board. The only other passengers were his folks, farmers up from Owen's Sound, and their friends who were also now farmers in Owen's Sound after recently returning from over 30 years in Alaska. They bought a large cooler aboard filled with beer and picnic fare and invited me to join them.



We set out but a thick, dense, soft fog decided to settle over us just as we were heading out.  We started out hoping we'd find pockets of sunshine, but no such luck and after 30 minutes we turned back - this tour was not meant to be.



The tour was to have been of Georgian Bay, the water that surrounds Tobermory. Below these very clear waters are over 120 documented shipwrecks from the late 1800's - many of which you can actually see from above. There is a national underwater park where people come from around the world to dive and swim around and through these wrecks. I took pictures of one we could see, but don't know yet if it actually came out.





Back on land earlier than we had expected, Tramp and I decided we'd take a walk out to the Grotto. The forests around Tobermory are littered with hiking trails of all levels. We found the trail head easily enough after just a couple of wrong turns, and I went for my camera to carry with me on the hike. Oops, no camera. Should I give up the hike and return to the boat or take the hike without the camera and then return for it? I chose to take the walk. This trail was actually a path, as wide as a city sidewalk and as level, about a mile long out to a swimming hole known as the grotto. It is a natural cove with rock steps and rock edges for walking or jumping or diving into warm and crystal clear waters. Tramp made her way down to the water as I waited above and swam happily for about 20 minutes after which we returned to the car and then to the boat. The boat was gone and so we went back to E'terra hoping Gary had found the camera and dropped it off at the lodge. No such luck. Laurie reached Gary on his cell; nope, he didn't see a camera left behind. We decided to meet up at the boat and go over it together. Two hours later, having searched high and low and talked with his folks and the harbormaster, etc.etc. etc no camera. Shoot!



By now it was nearly 8 at night and I was pooped. Tramp and I needed to pack and load up the car, settle our bill with Laurie, and set the alarm for 5AM so we would be at the ferry dock by 6 to cross the Bay and begin our ride north of Lake Huron to Sault St Marie where we'd cross back into the USA.

As we packed and loaded the car, I opened my carryon to put my passport and Tramp's papers in the pocket and there it was, my little camera, right where it was supposed to be.  How could I have missed it those 50 other times I looked right there?  Doesn't matter.  I had the camera and was, once again, a happy person.


Around 9 I was sitting with Laurie chatting and reviewing the bill. She charged me $30 for the 90 minute massage - Christiana was still a student afterall, and the aborted boat cruise was free. I was sad to say goodnight and goodbye as I wouldn't see her the next morning. She said she'd set out coffee and toast for me and a bag of fruits and other breakfast stuff to take on the ferry.





The alarm sounded all too early on Tuesday. It was still dark out. But, other than the fact that Tramp really didn't want to get into the car, all was well as we said good bye to this piece of heaven on earth. We were in line at the ferry on time surprised by the number of cars and vans, trucks and trailers that were making the crossing so early, midweek. The ferry was anything but pleasant. We were not allowed to remain in our car, but the only deck that would allow dogs was outside in the cold and wet with morning dew. No place to sleep. No way to get another cup of hot coffee. It was a very long two hour crossing, but by 9:30 we were off the ferry and on our way.





I had only three disks left of the audio book I was listening to, but I put them into the CD player and set off. The forests we drove through were scruffy and not particularly exciting, which was good since my eyes were blurry with tears that wanted to erupt as I listened to the sad, sweet and hopeful ending of my book.



By 2 we had crossed the boarder back into the US and I was surprised how much neater and more prosperous the US appeared. I remember the last time I was in Detroit and crossed into Windsor, Ontario. Detroit was like a bombed city, decaying and depressed; Windsor, on the other hand, was clean, prosperous and optimistic. I think I expected this to be similar where Sault St. Marie Canada was full of itself and its future while Sault St Marie, USA was old, tired, and just kind of holding on. In fact, that was not the case at all, and it surprised me.



I got to the Balsams Resort Motel and Cabins by about 4:30. Off the main road and across it from the lake, the motel looks like a throw back to the 1950's. I was led to my cabin by a young woman on her bike and Tramp and I settled in. Where E'terra was rustic elegance, Balsams is just rustic. Still, it is on a stream, as advertised, and the young family in the cabin behind me has a 3 month old puppy who fell in love with Tramp and they went exploring the woods and the streams together as the humans got acquainted. 

Back in the cabin I made myself some supper, called Mom to wish her happiness on her 96th birthday, and settled in.



I fell asleep as soon as I hit my pillow and slept deeply all night. I am now in the office, getting ready for my day. I had planned to go over to Mackinac Island, but I am rethinking that. I may go and explore a little town written up in the NY Times some months ago which sounds terrific. I'll decide when we get in the car.